Ireland and Isle of Man
Aug 30-Sep 7, 2024
AC800 YYZ-DUB, EI3212 DUB-IOM, EI3217 IOM-DUB, AC801 DUB-YYZ
At about the same time last year, we had planned a trip to the Isle of Man (IOM) from London. Unfortunately, our flight from London was canceled, so we decided to cut our losses and defer the IOM for another time. This year, when I found business class award seats to Ireland around the Labour Day weekend, we ultimately decided to combine some time in Ireland with the IOM. September is already shoulder season for the Isle, so ferry service was no longer an option, but there were a few flight options from Dublin or Belfast. To keep it simple, we planned one day in Dublin and then two nights in the IOM, before returning for four more nights in Ireland. With a blank slate on Ireland. we decided to focus on the southwest, and stayed in Dingle and covered the Ring of Kerry.
Aug 31
Before heading to the IOM, after our overnight flight to Dublin, we were at our downtown hotel by early morning and had time for a quick nap, before spending the day in Dublin.
St. Patrick's Cathedral
Temple Bar before the big party crowds arrive
Walking around the River Liffey
"The Meeting Place" public art along River Liffey
The Parnell Monument with some pro-Palestinian protestors
120m high The Spire still impresses
The Book of Kells experience brings some multi-media to add more context to the historic book
The Sphere Sculpture at Trinity College
Trinity College Campus
Ogham Stone with ancient markings (5th/6th Century)
Another Ogham Stone
Image of one of the pages of the 9th Century Book of Kells
After viewing the actual book of Kells, we get to see the Trinity College Library
Impressive college library, with the majority of the historic collection recently removed for cleaning and restoration
One of the many busts lining the shelves
Looking back at the empty shelves
Modern office complex
Looking across the river at the imposing Wellington Monument
Irish Museum of Modern Art
Massive tapestry in the Modern Art Museum
Art outside the museum
Modern art museum housed in the 17th-century Royal Hospital Kilmainham
Gardens at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham
Garden statuary
Church of St. Nicholas of Myra
Garden of Remembrance
Connected with NYC Union Square by the Portal; unfortunately, we didn't visit the other side when we were just in NYC
O'Connell Monument
River Liffey at dusk from the O'Connell Bridge
Bank of Ireland
Bars lit up for Saturday night
Back at St. Patrick's Park near our hotel
With a full day around Dublin, and over 20,000 steps, we were ready for dinner. We found a nice Indian restaurant near the hotel. After a great meal, we were ready to get some sleep.
Sep 1
To catch our morning flight to Isle of Man, we caught the first bus to the airport. After check-in, we had some time in the lounge before we needed to board the plane. Everything was on schedule, and after our second attempt, we finally arrived in the Isle of Man, picked up our rental car, and headed out across the island to Peel.
Peel boatyard on the
Peel town with the Peel Beach on the right
Peel Castle from the pier
Peel Castle exterior
Lifeboat station where rescue boats launch to respond to maritime accidents
Main castle tower and chapel
Touring the Peel Castle interior
Looking back at Peel
Castle cannons
Viewing the city through the castle ruins
Unique Manx flag, a triskelion design with three legs
Inspecting the castle mortar and wear from centuries of wind
The rabbits had the run of the grounds; we were warned to avoid twisting an ankle
Grounds with the town and coast in the background
Continuing to tour the fort grounds
Crypt in the lower castle
Looking down on the castle
Cathedral interior
Fenella chainsaw sculpture
House of Manannan museum
Model of the ancient mounds
How the early Manx lived on the Isle
Ships that arrived with the Vikings
Kitchen supplies in the museum
Bread making machine
Fish containers
Showcasing the history of Lifeboat rescues around the Isle
Walking Peel Beach before heading out
Tide very much out at Fennella Beach
Winding our way across the island's often-narrow roads
Looking across at Calf of Man island from the southern tip of the Isle
Exploring the rugged coastline
Sealions resting along the coast
Beautiful rugged coastline
Beautiful fall flowers
We had a great first day in the Isle of Man, and although the weather wasn’t perfect, we were grateful that we only had a few sprinkles. We made our way to Douglas, checked into our hotel, and grabbed some dinner nearby.
Sep 2
For our next day on the Isle, we continued to have some cloud cover and a few intermittent showers, but they didn’t really impact our plans. We started the day at the Manx Museum in Douglas.
The Giant Deer Stag at the museum
More ancient stone writing
Historic Tram that ran along Douglas promenade
Tracing the TT Motorcycle Race history in the museum
Another motorcycle
The sidecar race is a unique part of the TT -- this one didn't fare so well
Fitted out sidecar
Taxidermied Manx cat, showing off its tail stub
Modern home of the Isle of Man Parliament in Douglas
Somewhat rainy TT grandstand for the start and end of the mountain race course
Douglas Burough Cemetery opposite the TT Grandstand
Cemetery grave
Model of the Rushen Abbey
Restored ruins of the Rushen Abbey; thankfully they lent us an umbrella to stay relatively dry
The garden where the abbey once stood
National War Museum at Tynwald Hill
Official parliament site at Tynwald Hill, located there since the 14th century, and evocative of the island's Viking-influenced heritage. Although there is a building in Douglas for most business, this is still the official capitol
The Royal Chapel of St John the Baptist, facing Tynwald Hill
Millennium of Tynwald Monument
Driving the TT mountain route with the named and numbered features
The beautiful flowers at Point of Ayre on the NE tip of the Isle
Warning siren
Point of Ayre Lighthouse
Duck outside Grove Museum
Farm machinery outside the Grove Museum
Historic Grove Museum house and grounds
Victorian house interior
Grandfather clock
Beehive model
Grove Museum gardens
Full scope of the Grove Museum house
St. Paul's church in Ramsey
Church of our Lady, Ramsey
Watching the beach from Queens Promenade in Ramsey
Luckily the winds were calm today
Continuing to walk the Promenade
Life boat launch in Ramsey
When I Grow Up public art depicts a young child that wants to serve on the lifeboats
Ransey Millennium Sculpture depicting two Norse Kings
Ramsey war memorial
St. Maughold church and graveyard
We had company for our short hike
Another observer
Looking up the coast from Maughold Head
Maughold Lighthouse
Checking out the Great Laxey Wheel, closed for the day, on our way back to Douglas
Watching a Steam Packet ferry arriving from England
Villa Marina in Douglas
Douglas War Memorial
Douglas Opera House
Statue commemorating some of Isle of Man's most famous exports
Beautiful gardens next to Douglas Central Beach
Douglas Jubilee clock
Ferry Terminal
The Tower of Refuge from Shipwreck, stone-built castellated structure on St Mary's Isle in Douglas Bay
Looking back on our less than luxury hotel, which was at least well-located
Some of the many motorbikes here to relive the TT experience
Safely back at the hotel after a full day of touring and avoiding the rain showers, we found dinner at a fish and chip shop next to the hotel and turned in for the evening.
Sep 3
We actually had a clear forecast for a good part of the last day we had on the isle. To make the most of it, we got an early start and headed to the mountains. Unfortunately, the blue skies didn’t last all day, but we managed to see some beautiful scenery and some more history regardless.
Heading into the mountains on the A18 along the TT Route
The Snaefell Mountain Railway tracks that lead to the top of Isle of Man's highest peak
Some of the TT infrastructure is permanent at the Bunalow
Continuing through the mountains on A14, but no longer on the TT course
Very pretty house in the mountain valley along the Sulby River
Sulby Reservoir and Dam
Checking out the giant Great Laxey Wheel, the largest waterwheel in the world, before they opened the flow of water from the reservoir for the day
Broader perspective on the 1854 72'/22m diameter wheel where the water is released just below the upper platform
Nearby waterfall with water not flowing through the wheel
Entrance to the now-abandoned mine that was originally powered by the wheel. I tested the hard hat on the low rock ceilings a few times
The end of the line for us
Watching the water flow through the mechanism
Amazing view of the valley from the platform at the top of the wheel
View as we ride the Snaefell Mountain Railway up the mountain
We made it to the top and right into a cloud. The ride was cool, but not as scenic as we'd hoped.
Marker at the highest peak in the Isle of Man
Making our way down and now out of the cloud before grabbing some ice cream on our way towards the airport
13th Century Castle Rushen was our last stop on the historical tour
Entering through the well-protected castle gates
View of Castletown from the tower, making it clear that the blue skies were a distant memory
The city and harbour below the castle walls
The well-restored exterior
They also restored some of the interior rooms to give a sense of castle life
Fire was a necessity with the cool wet climate
Our last stop was at the Captain Quilliam (a local naval hero) Statue before dropping the car at the airport and flying back to Dublin
After arriving in Dublin, we picked up the rental car, and drove to the small town to Trim, famous for its castle
We had an amazing view of Trim Castle across the street from our hotel
Looking back at the castle from across the river
After a good walk around the castle grounds, we looked for dinner in the town, and continuing our very Irish diet, found a nice Indian restaurant for dinner.
Sep 4
We started our next day in Ireland with more time to explore Trim, before heading south east towards Dingle. We didn’t have a firm itinerary when we set out, but first headed to Kilkenny.
Ireland's Oldest Bridge over the River Boyne in Trim
St Mary's Abbey ruins and the Sheep Gate
Old bridge ruins -- the river used to run below, but has since meandered or been diverted elsewhere, nearby
Last view of Trim Castle before heading towards Kilkenny
Kilkenny Hurling Statue commemorating the local sport
Kilkenny Castle over the River Nore
Entrance to the castle
Castle State Dining Room was formal dining room in the 1860's
Castle entrance hall, the main entry since the 17th century
Grand Staircase - 19th century mahogany staircase
Castle statuary
Drawing Room
Looking at the castle and grounds from inside
The nursery provide a glimpse of 19th century childhood
The Blue Bedroom
The Moorish Staircase, added later to provide improved access to the Picture Gallery
The Picture Gallery, added during the early nineteenth century
Full breadth of the castle
Kilkenny Castle Garden
Market Cross Shopping Centre on High St. in Kilkenny
Ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, originally founded in 1180
The detailed carvings are well-preserved and restored
Close up on one of the carvings
Broad perspective of the ruin foundation
Ancient intricate stone carvings
Last view of Jerpoint Abbey exterior before heading out
We stopped to visit the grave of Tom's friend Kevin, who died of cancer shortly after our first visit to Ireland 10 years earlier
After driving through some rain, the skies clear as we enter the Dingle Peninsula
We navigated the narrow one lane road to Minard Castle
Minard Castle with the Iveragh Peninsula in across the bay
Dingle Harbour
Beautiful skies to end the day at Dingle
Picturesque town of Dingle
After a long day of driving, we enjoyed some very fresh and local Fish and Chips near the harbour before turning in for the evening.
Sep 5
The Ring of Kerry around the Iveragh Peninsula is one of the premium drives in Ireland. It is very popular with both the tour bus crowd and self drivers, and we needed to get an early start. Dingle, although a very nice location to stay at, was unfortunately almost 2 hours from the traditional start of the Ring of Kerry. We arrived at Kenmare a little after 10:00am and started our clockwise trip.
Stopping along the Dingle Peninsula on our way to Kenmare
Inch Beach with the mountains of Iveragh Peninsula ahead
Panorama of Inch Beach
Blackwater Pier, our first stop out Kenmare on the Ring of Kerry loop
Looking across the bay to Beara Peninsula
The town of Sneem's cathedral
Rocky elements of Sneem River flowing through town
1985 Tree of Light Sculpture in one of two of Sneem's town squares
Charles de Gaulle memorial commemorating his holiday in the area in 1969
Impressive Staigue ringfort, one of the forts that inspire the "Ring" in the Ring of Kerry
Incredible views as we walk the round stone walls
Very impressive restoration
Castlecove Beach
Enjoying the view from the lookout as we make our way clockwise around the peninsula
View of the distant Skellig Islands
Panorama from the very scenic lookout
Charlie Chaplin statue in town of Waterville where he regularly holidayed
Zooming into Skellig Islands
St. Finian's Bay
Serious hat head as I save my hat from the wind gusts at the peak of the road
Our less than compact car built tough in Romania is ready to complete the next half of the drive
After paying the high parking fee, we are able to walk to Kerry Cliffs and the advertised best views in Kerry County
Luckily the views lived up to the hype, even with the sun not well positioned for photos
More of the rocky coastline
Our last of the best views
Llama with a view
I don't think the llamas had to pay extra for the best view in Kerry
Clock tower in Knightstown on Valentia Island
Looking across to the mainland
Memorial in Knightstown commemorates a public water supply built in 1847 during the Irish Famine
Riding on Ireland's oldest active ferry vessel, back to the main road
Ferry loading up for its return trip to the island, as it runs continually back and forth
Visiting Cahergal, our last ringfort on the loop
We briefly had the fort to ourselves
Back at the lookout near Dingle, where we started our morning
A bit of cloud cover on the Dingle Pass, as we make our way back to the town of Dingle
With a very full day of driving behind us, we had a brief rest before heading into Dingle for an early dinner, at a lovely wine bar and pizza restaurant with some amazing salads. We managed to get some good rest, as we had another full day of driving ahead for our last day in Ireland.
Sep 6
One of the main reasons to visit Dingle is to drive the Slea Head Loop Drive, which is similar to the Ring of Kerry, but a much shorter 45km/30 miles. Although the scale is smaller, it was very worth the drive, and was our last major attraction before heading back to Dublin for our flight home the next day. Again, as a popular destination, and with a long journey ahead, we got out on the road right after breakfast to start the Slea Head Loop Drive.
Restored Fehan Beehive Huts
Checking out the interior
Cross at Slea Head marks a turn in the loop round
"Blasket's View", another scenic pullout
Stopping for the view near Coumeenoole Beach
Dunquin Burial Ground, with a view of some of the coastal islands
Exploring the coastal trail near the Great Blasket Centre -- always remember to use the handrail!
Sculpture outside the Great Blasket Centre
Gallarus Oratory, built over 1,300 years ago, is one the Ireland's best-preserved early Christian Churches
View from inside the Oratory
Ruined church of Kilmalkedar
Inside the chapel ruins
Having given up the clear skies for cloud, we can barely see Conor Pass on our way out of Dingle
The very narrow pass enshrouded in cloud
With a quick stop in Limerick, we get a nice view of the Limerick Castle from Arthur's Quay Park
Pedestrian bridge connecting the park to the castle
St. Mary's Cathedral in Limerick
Public art outside the Hunt Museum
From Limerick, we made our way to Dublin. Google Maps ended up avoiding some road closured and slowdowns, creating a creative, but not completely direct, way to our hotel in the Dublin suburbs. Tom was able to safely navigate the oncoming traffic in the two-way one-lane road that made part of the route, and we were happy to be parked for the night. Our hotel was a near a shopping mall with lots of food options, so we were set for our last evening.
Sep 7
With a relatively early flight and a lounge waiting for us in the airport, we were up quite early and headed directly to the airport. We safely returned the rental car, and were checked in and in the lounge pretty quickly, and our flight got us home to Toronto more or less on time. We were very happy to be home midday Saturday with a full day to recover from the trip before work on Monday.