Argentina and Chile

February 29 - March 10, 2008
Feb 29 AC92 YYZ-EZE,
Mar 3 LA4024 AEP-IGR,
Mar 4 AR1721/2812 IGR-AEP-USH,
Mar 10 LA284 USH-SCL, AC93 SCL-YYZ

This was our third trip to Chile in 3 years, but our first trip to Argentina.  I still strongly advocate the Southern hemisphere during our winters; you cannot beat the long days for packing in a full trip.  Since we made it to the Southern tip of the Americas, the days were particularly long.

Although we enjoyed the European sensibility of Buenos Aires, unfortunately someone did try to rob us.  As we emerged from under a tree branch hanging on a path in a park outside La Recoleta Cemetery, two ‘friendly’ woman informed us that we had both received a gift from birds nested above.  We were certainly covered with something, but were very suspicious of their strong desire to clean us up.  Our caution, and some luck, allowed us to leave with all our belongings.  At the time we found it odd, but only when we later consulted the Internet did we confirm that this is a common pickpocket scam.  Save for some time lost cleaning up at the hotel, we were not too worse for wear.

Iguazu Falls, in the north of Argentina, was a definite highlight and is certainly like no other falls that we’ve visited.  However, Patagonia was the main reason for the trip, and we took an amazing cruise on a small ship from the tip of Argentina around Cape Horn and back into the southern tip of Chile that I would recommend to anyone.  We had resisted cruises, and likely will still avoid the mega ships, but this short four-day cruise was full of activities and had us out exploring on Zodiac boats each day.  We had much too short a time in Torres Del Paine to truly enjoy, but the views were breathtaking.  Santiago was basically our way home, but we did take the time to enjoy a local winery.

Mar 1
Arrived on Saturday afternoon after a full night and morning of flying

Florida St. -- pedestrian shopping street near our hotel

Gallerias Pacifico french-style shopping centre with an incredible painted roof

Mar 2
We got up early to start our one full day in Buenos Aires

Typical tombs in the huge La Recoleta Cemetery

The crowds trying to get a view of the Eva Peron (aka Evita) tomb

“Don’t cry for me Argentina”

Renovated Centro Cultural Recoleta including museums, galleries and cinema

Park near Cultural Centre where bird dung scam artists hit us with their simulated bird dung

Puerto Madero -- newly revitalized waterfront area

Looking around the canal at Puerto Madero

Casa Rosada (Pink Government Palace) in Plaza de Mayo

Child feeding the pigeons in Plaza de Mayo

Street performers in the artsy San Telmo after the Sunday market closed

Street vendor selling vessels used for drinking the Argentinian tea drink Yerba mate (mah-tay)

Mar 3
A few hours to explore Buenos Aires prior to our noon flight to Puerto Iguaza

Quickly went from airport to our hotel in national park and our first view of Garganta del Diablo

A panorama view of the two main falls at Iguazu

The boat in front of us under Salto San Martin prior to our drenching experience

Overlook of Salto San Martin as we toured through the national park

View of Diablo from the balcony of our hotel prior to our dinner.  Brazil on left.  Argentina on right

A further panorama of some of the smaller falls

One of numerous coati that roamed the park

Mar 4
We have the morning at the falls prior to spending the rest of the day flying to Ushuaia

Fog rolled into the falls over night, but luckily cleared as the sun came up

The remarkably calm Iguazu River just above the falls

A close up view of Diablo falls after a train ride and short walk across the river

After flying all afternoon we explore Ushuaia before dinner and spot a cat out for a walk

Mar 5
We have the day in Ushuaia prior to boarding our cruise to Punta Arenas

We started the day hiking in Tierra del Fuego national park

A beaver dam in the park built by the invasive beaver population

Mare Australis -- our cruise ship-- prior to our evening departure

Looking back on Ushuaia after our evening departure

Mar 6
205 nautical miles Murray Channel, Cape Horn, Wulaia Bay, Beagle Channel

The Cape Horn Memorial albatross at 7:30 in the morning prior to sailing around the cape   

After a rough ride through Nassau Bay, we visit the engine room

Looking back at Wulaia Bay after a lovely hike to the overlook

An overview of the Australis property on Wulaia Bay

One of the numerous dolphins that followed our zodiac back to the ship

Mar 7
216 nautical miles Brecknock/Cockburn Channel, Chico Sound, Magellan Straits

One of numerous glaciers in the picturesque channels

Unloading the Zodiacs at Chico Fjord prior heading out to the glacier

Gunther Pluschow Glacier and the fresh ice chunks up close from our Zodiac

Two rock cormorant on the rocks 

Looking back on the fjord entry

We were lucky to see a significant chunk of glacier fall into the fjord

Sailing back through the strait at sunset

Mar 8
79 Nautical Miles Magdalena Isle to Punta Arenas and on land to Puerto Natales

Magdalena island and the 150,000-penguin colony just after 7:00 am 

Some of the thousands of nesting penguins

Magellanic Penguin up close

On of the birds making their signature braying sound, giving them the “jackass” nickname

An upland goose, one of the other bird species on the island

Me up close and personal with one of the penguins, that thankfully didn’t peck me

A few birds close up

Milodon Cave North of Puerto Natales named for 4m tall Milodon remains discovered

Mar 9
Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine and on to Santiago via Punta Arenas

Some of the numerous Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) in Torres Del Paine

One of many picturesque views -- unfortunately no time for hiking

Main peaks of Torres del Paine

One last look back on our way out of the park and a long drive back to Punta Arenas

Mar 10
Spend a relaxing day in Santiago prior to our evening flight back to Toronto

The wine vaults with Diablo image -- legend invented to stop workers from stealing wine

Concha Y Toro Winery tour and tasting given to us by a Canadian wintering in Chile

Overnight flight and back to work on March 11th